In recent years, the fashion industry has come under increasing scrutiny for its negative impact on the environment and human rights. Sustainable fashion is no longer a niche concern but a pressing necessity. The apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions and remains the second-largest industrial polluter after oil. Additionally, the World Bank estimates that nearly 20% of global water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing. But consumers are asking for change. According to research by Bain and WWF, around 15% of global fashion consumers are highly concerned about sustainability and consistently make purchasing decisions to lower their impact. This percentage could increase to over 50% in the coming years as more shoppers adopt sustainable practices.
We recently discussed sustainable fashion with Neri Karra Sillaman Entrepreneurship expert at Oxford Said Business School and author of Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business. You can listen to our podcast episode here.
In this context, it is essential for businesses to find innovative ways to revolutionize the industry, and B Corps are at the forefront of this change, from the iconic Patagonia to many new brands. For a list of some ethical fashion B Corps, you can visit here.
For B Corp month, we spoke with Geoff van Sonsbeeck , co-founder and CEO of certified B Corp House of Baukjen. It is the UK’s highest scoring fashion B Corp, home to two ethically, socially, and sustainably conscious womenswear brands Baukjen and Isabella Oliver. In 2021, they became the first fashion company ever to win a UN Global Climate Action Award at COP26.
The company
Geoff’s background in the fashion industry has been driven by a strong focus on ethics and sustainability. After working at Shell, he set up his own business in the fashion industry, shaken by the Ellen MacArthur statistic that “every second truckload of garments goes into landfill or incineration”. Instead of leaving the industry, Geoff decided to rethink the “linear fashion model” and create a comprehensive circular solution.
Geoff’s comprehensive circular solution involves several key components, including redesigning products, working with partners, producing in volumes and just-in-time, ensuring transparency, providing education, creating a movement, offering care and repair services, implementing take-back programs, promoting secondhand garments and rentals, offering subscriptions, and supporting recycling initiatives.
Geoff highlights the importance of offering responsible fashion at a comparable price point, with the same or better quality than traditional options.
He explains, “I need to provide a comparable price point at a comparable look and feel, I would argue better quality”.
Ensuring supplier compliance with sustainability standards is a critical challenge for the fashion industry, which has historically operated under a veil of secrecy, with little transparency between supply chain tiers. However, Geoff points out that the food sector has been leading the way in creating transparency through the supply chain, and the fashion industry can learn from their example. The key to success is working with the right partners who are willing to embrace change and take risks. Geoff has found that many partners in the vertical are willing to collaborate to achieve transparency, certifications, and improvements, and they have been proactive in bringing together brands, dye houses, and producers to implement more energy and water-efficient solutions.
“By working together and taking risks, a visionary supply chain can embrace change and be on the right side of history”.
House of Baukjen has been actively reshoring production to Europe for better ethical standards and reduced environmental impact. Geoff agrees that being careful about the entire supply chain is crucial in creating a sustainable fashion model. Nearshoring to Europe “for better standards of ethics” and shortening the distance of travel is important, but it’s only the first tier. It’s necessary to be proactive in understanding the second, third, and fourth tiers of the supply chain, particularly for materials like cotton, which can travel around “the world one and a half times before reaching the consumer”. Geoff is actively working on transforming the supply chain and now fostering “regenerative solutions in Africa and Spain to support farmers in transition and minimize the environmental footprint”. They are also focused on ensuring transparency around the ethics of their supply chain. However, they acknowledge that there will be setbacks as they continue to learn and refine their approach.
B Corp
Geoff believes that having a purpose-driven framework is essential for creating a sustainable and ethical fashion model, and they found that the B Corp framework is the most effective for achieving this goal.
“B Corp is the most appropriate and most effective framework to help you improve every single day.”
Even if a company doesn’t achieve B Corp accreditation, going through the process of seeking improvements and measuring progress will make them a better business. While the B Corp logo may still have low awareness among consumers, it nonetheless can enhance staff awareness and attract employees who want to work for purpose-driven companies. Additionally, it may have a positive impact on financial markets and competitors who recognize a company’s superior practices. However, the primary focus is on creating a framework for continual improvement, and Geoff believes that the B Corp framework is a valuable tool for achieving this goal.
At House of Baukjen, they have implemented rigorous reporting standards at a public company level, despite being a smaller business, to demonstrate the level of transparency that is possible.
Of course, the B Corp framework may require some adjustments, but “it’s still the best solution” currently available, and companies should strive to adopt purpose-driven frameworks to create positive change.
Milestones
House of Baukjen has reached several milestones in their journey to transform the fashion industry. The first key turning point for Geoff was when they made the decision to eliminate all plastic packaging from their supply chain and also eliminated plastic hangers. Secondly, they were invited to participate in the Fashion Pact, which is a coalition of 71 companies representing 39% of the global fashion sector, and their company was the smallest by far. Their progressive approach and blueprint for change served as a catalyst for other companies to follow suit. They have also achieved a B Corp score of 108 points, which is the highest in the UK for a fashion company.
Additionally, “we were the only fashion company to be awarded the United Nations Global Climate Action Award at COP 26”.
“It’s a recognition for being trailblazing in what we do, and being so bold in explaining that it’s possible”. They have been critical of low-impact responsible farmers and are proud to report that almost 99% of their suppliers are now responsible. Third-party assessments show that “our environmental footprint is about 20 times lower than the industry average, across factors such as carbon, chemicals, air, and water”.
The company has tripled in size over the past three years, but they are struggling to keep up with their own growth due to the need for more working capital, financing, and equity debt. Their mission is to change the fashion sector, and they want to be able to say “yes” to every opportunity to do so, rather than having to turn them down due to lack of resources and capital.
“We have a clear understanding of what needs to be done, but we simply don’t have the financial resources to execute everything we want to do. It’s a shame because these initiatives are not just good for us, but for everyone involved”
The way forward
Geoff’s vision is to create a fashion 2.0 market segment where customers are educated and aware of responsible brands. He plans to reach these customers not just through e-commerce but also through global retail partners who have a large customer base. They will continue to expand their direct-to-consumer channel and work with their supply chain to improve processes and achieve even higher levels of sustainability and ethical standards.
To create a more significant impact, Geoff believes in the power of collaboration and sharing knowledge. He encourages other brands and companies to join the sustainable fashion movement, and House of Baukjen is open to sharing their practices and experiences. They are actively seeking to work with other brands and create a network of changemakers to push the fashion industry towards a more sustainable future.
Geoff is also a firm believer in the power of consumer choice. He emphasizes the importance of educating consumers about the impact of their choices and the consequences of buying fast fashion. By making informed decisions, consumers can play a crucial role in driving the industry towards a more sustainable and ethical model.
“We need to make sure consumers understand that they vote with their wallets, and if they vote for change, change will happen”
Geoff von Sonsbeeck’s vision for a transformed fashion industry is ambitious, but it is also achievable. By embracing a purpose-driven framework, working closely with the right partners, and engaging consumers, companies like House of Baukjen can lead the way towards a more sustainable and ethical future for fashion.
The sustainable fashion movement is gaining momentum, and B Corps are at the forefront of this change. By adopting the B Corp framework and embracing a comprehensive circular solution, House of Baukjen has demonstrated the potential for fashion companies to make a significant positive impact on the environment and society. By continuing to collaborate, innovate, and educate, the fashion industry can move closer to a more sustainable and ethical future.
If you enjoyed this content and want to join the conversation, connect with Samuele Tini and share your thoughts on sustainable fashion!